Beverley Minster Roof Tour is for you. My wife and I took it a few weeks ago, led by our knowledgeable and friendly guide Emma, ably supported by her husband and “Back-Stop” John (there’s a t-shirt right there!)
Things began with a fascinating introductory history lesson from Emma about the origins of the gorgeous gothic Minster as we walked around the ground floor. In doing so it was hard to hold on to the fact that although bigger than a third of all cathedrals in the UK, the Minster is not one itself. Indeed, but for a remarkable engineering rescue job performed on an alarming lean afflicting one of the great stone walls it may not be standing today. Emma explains all.
As the introduction concluded we found ourselves coming to rest by a small, wooden door set in a stone wall - the serious stuff of climbing 113 steps up to the vaults beckoned. Before we set off, with pointed finger John made reference to a decorative ceiling boss about 30 metres above our heads, asking us to remember it for later. With that intriguing comment ringing in our ears, we followed Emma through the door to a dimly (but adequately) lit area at the bottom of a narrow and musty stone staircase which, as you climb, makes you feel like you are inhaling history with each breath. At the top are a number of doors leading to different vaulted areas, signalling the beginning of the “roof” tour.
Unlike downstairs in the main building, the emphasis here in the vaults is on construction without the beautification. This said, like downstairs, echoes of the past are everywhere: aged bespoke bricks from long gone local factories and ancient timbers from old forests to name two. Others are unique to the vaults, including names of long-passed tradesmen etched into windows and stone; and a giant wooden “hamster wheel” … Pardon? What? Haven’t noticed any giant hamsters, at least not yet, so what’s this all about? Our guide didn’t disappoint.
Here I should say if, having read this far, you are inclined or likely to take this tour, please stop reading now if you want to enjoy a tour surprise, and what was for me one of the highlights.
It involves the aforementioned grand hamster wheel (treadmill) and the transportation of materials, waste and equipment from and to the vaults.
Secured firmly to heavy timber ceiling joists, the treadmill was installed in the 1700s and linked to the aforementioned ceiling boss-cum-plug pointed out earlier from ground level by John, using a lengthy and substantial iron chain. When material/s needed to be moved from or to the vault/s above, a workman would climb into the treadmill and begin walking to lower the boss - about three metres in diameter quarter of a ton in weight and - to ground floor level, or walk the other way to raise it back up, as required. Georgian engineering, eh?! Accidents did happen though, I gather. Emma will tell you more.
Nowadays it’s the push of a button to start and stop a powerful electric motor that drives the same chain. I was delighted to find the tour included a demonstration whereby we saw the plug lifted into the apex of the vault. It was quite alarming and unnerving - and irresistible - to look down through that “plug hole” to see and hear the choir 30-odd metres below as they practiced for a concert later that evening.
I rubbed my eyes and paused to consider if I had woken up in a hitherto unscreened episode of Thunderbirds. Was the giant hamster wheel really Thunderbird 6?
113 steps. Worth every one, and more,
The Minster relies hugely on an enthusiastic and active volunteer workforce, of which Emma and John are two. I hope you get, or can make, the opportunity to visit this gem of the British historical landscape.
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